While there are thousands of stones and gems, many with
similar names and colors, I have listed some of the most popular ones here. As
you visit bead stores or go to bead shows, you’ll keep discovering new stones.
Every gemstone in the world holds its own unique beauty,
rarity, and identity. Gem identification is a process of observing and testing
a gemstones chemical properties and characteristic structure. This process
requires gemological procedures and a well trained eye.
There are many cases in which identifying a gemstone is a
very important task in order to avoid financial loss and in order to hold a
superior reputation. If you are a buyer or a seller of gemstones you need to be
able to accurately assess the value of the product and determine if they are
genuine or synthetic stones. Appraisals for insurance value and trade in
value are required to disclose treatments and enhancements, and in order to
provide this information you will have to be able to identify the stone first
and its treatments. General observation along with the aide of
magnification is the first step to take in identifying a gemstone, followed by
instrumental testing which requires the use of tools such as the
refractometer.
One of the biggest challenges for the gemologist is, not just obtaining
accurate data, but properly analyzing it. After making some initial tests, they
begin looking at long lists of potential species. It is easy to loose your way
in a sea of data and important clues are often overlooked.
Identifying Gem Stones – Step 1:
First, try to make sure that, the gemstone that you
have, is a gem stone. Some times what you think may be a gem stone is just a
pretty rock or a piece of metallic ore.
Since the term gem stone is largely arbitrary, this can
be hard. Some basic guidelines include:
a) If it's rough and sandy, it should not be identified
as a gem stone, no matter how pretty it may be.
b) If it's malleable, that is easily able to be shaped
by hammering, crushing or bending; it is probably a metallic ore. Gem stones
are primarily identified by a crystalline structure, which can be shaped, but
not easily shaped and then only by cutting, fracturing or abrasion.
c) A pearl, though used in jewelry, is not considered a gem stone.
(Though if you want to identify it as a gem stone, go ahead. I won't tell
anyone.)
d) It is tempting to identify fossilized wood as a gem
stone because of its shiny, lustrous surface and its attractive lines and
colors, but it is not considered a gem.
Identifying Gem Stones – Step 2:
Hardness:
In the identification of gem stones, hardness is one of
the most important of all tests. While not usually a definitive way to identify
a gem stone, it does at least put you into the correct group of possibilities.
To help you use hardness to identify a gem stone, there
are a variety of hardness scales that you can use. The most common is the 'Mohs' Scale' which ranks mineral
hardness on a scale of one (talc) to ten (diamond).
To measure the hardness of the gem stone you wish to
identify, you will use a hardness kit. This contains a set of substances of
varying hardness keyed to one of the hardness scales.
If your test substance can scratch the subject gem
stone, then the test substance is harder than the subject gem stone. By trying
several test substances on your subject gem stone, you will be able to
approximate the hardness of the subject.
Since diamond is often too expensive for most kits,
glass is sometimes used in its place.
Identifying Gem Stones – Step 3:
Cleavage:
This refers to the tendency of crystals to break along
fixed planes in their structure. By striking the crystalline gem stone, you can
examine the break and compare it to various cleavage charts.
Many gem stones, including quartz and mica, are easily
identified by this way. If you suspect that your gem stone is extremely
valuable, like a diamond, you may want to skip this step.
Identifying Gem Stones – Step 4:
Streak:
This is a method of gem stone identification that
involves using the subject gem stone to make a mark on a hard, ceramic plate.
Many (but not all) gem stones will leave a streak. By comparing the appearance
of this streak to various charts, you have another clue to use in gem stone
identification.
Identifying Gem Stones – Step 5:
Crystal morphology, or
shape.
Most gem stones are made up of crystals, each with a
unique shape based on their atomic and molecular structure. A simple example of
crystal shape can be seen by examining sugar crystals and salt crystals under a
powerful glass. While they may look the same in a bowl, up close their crystal
shapes are very different and unique.
Identifying Gem Stones – Step 6:
Color:
While this may seem the first test to use when
classifying a gem stone, using color to identify a stone is not as reliable as
you might think.
Most people view the sapphire as blue, but this cousin
to the ruby can be found in various shades including pink, green, yellow and
almost transparent.
The classic diamond, with its colorless crystal, looks
so much like the less rare cubic zirconium or cubic zirconia, that they almost
indistinguishable without a close examination.
Identifying Gem Stones – Step 7:
Chemical and Physical tests:
These methods of identification of gems most often used
by experts because they usually require special equipments. The tests include:
a) Specific gravity.
b) Refractive Index.
c) Light Dispersion.
d) Color changes.
Once you have your list of measurements, and a reliable
set of tables for comparison, you are well on your way to identification of
your gem stone.
BUT, before you put the down payment on that boat,
check with an expert (gemologist who is a person who studies gems and can
identify gem stones) to make sure that the shiny stone that you have, is really
a diamond, and not a zirconium.
Note: (Please, don't try to identify a gem stone by
yourself if you have precious stones and expensive ones, but it's better to
check them by a gemologist or send your gem stones to us to check them for
you).
Here’s the list of fairly
common gems and stones you should be able to find at your local bead store or
online bead vendor:
1) Agate: Agate is a semi-opaque stone available in many colors,
including blues, greens, yellows, pinks, and black. Agate typically has stripes
of color variations or blends that make it an interesting addition to any jewelry
piece. Its mixture of vibrant colors blends
well with pink and white pearls.
If blue is your color, blue agate is a must-have for you. In its natural
form, this agate is often gray. If you’re creating jewelry that resembles the
water or sky, try combining this semi-translucent stone with a variety of other
blue beads — like various shapes and shades of Austrian crystals. Enhance it by
mixing it with other cool colors such as greens and lavenders. Blue agate is
often used to create Intaglia cameos, or cameos carved from the back
that have a smooth top.
2) Amazonite: For cool and calm, think amazonite. These blue-green beads
add a sense of tranquility to all your jewelry. For a distinctive look, try it with black onyx or combine
it with red-streaked green and white bloodstone or green and blue crystals.
4) Amethyst: The most popular quartz is probably amethyst, which ranges
from a light lilac to a deep purple, the color of royalty. It’s a rich and
popular multipurpose gemstone. Most people think of it as a stone with
exceptional spiritual power. This highly valued quartz works well in pendants
and earrings or in a strand of beads or briolettes. Faceted amethyst with tiny
pearls is also a beautiful combination.
5) Ametrine: A delicate blend of quartz containing both amethyst and
citrine, ametrine is beautiful. It’s a newer gemstone, discovered less than 40
years ago. Depending on how the gem is cut, you can have either more purple with
a splash of yellow, or vice versa. Choose beads for what appeals to you, and
you can’t go wrong.
6) Apatite: Apatite is usually bright sea green but can also be found in
yellows, blues, browns, and purples. Its name means “to deceive” because many
early merchants often mistook it for more valuable stones like peridot. It’s
used less often than other gems in jewelry making because it’s not as hard as
other stones. Use it carefully in pieces that won’t receive daily wear.
7) Aquamarine: Sparkling light blue to blue-green aquamarine is a strong
stone. Few of these stones are actually mined and found naturally in their
signature color. Instead, paler, duller stones are heated until the desired
color is reached, or they are dyed (though the dyed forms may be somewhat
brittle). Use it in rings, pendants, or exquisite ankle bracelets.
8) Aventurine: Because aventurine is a hard stone, it’s popular with stone
carvers and, therefore, is an excellent resource for beads, cabochons, and
other types of decorative components. The colors range from light to medium
green, although some forms of aventurine are also available in reds, blues,
grays, and oranges. It contains small flecks of mineral inclusions, giving it
extra sparkle. A poor-man’s jade, green aventurine has a look similar to jade
without the cost.
9) Black onyx: The natural color of onyx is a creamy mixture of beige,
brown, and off-white. For beads, it is seldom sold in its natural state and
instead is generally dyed black. This is a great stone for making men’s
jewelry, and it also looks wonderful with sterling silver.
10) Blue topaz: Assigned as a birthstone to November or December (depending
on whom you ask), blue topaz is a form of quartz and comes in light to medium
shades of blue. It’s a favorite of fine jewelers who include it in high-end
gold jewelry, most often as a faceted set stone. But you can also find blue
topaz beads for your own designs. One word of warning, however: Because these stones are often color
treated, don’t leave dyed quartz in bright light or it will fade.
11) Carnelian: Like many gemstones, carnelian is normally treated to darken
its color, which ranges from light orange to dark burgundy. The darker the
stone, the more you can bet it’s been color enhanced. The darker shades of
carnelian are also more popular with gemstone bead enthusiasts. Personally, I
prefer those that border on the brown rather than the burgundy.
12) Citrine: The citrine gemstone is a birthstone for the month of
November. It’s a form of quartz and is normally a translucent light to dark
yellow color.
13) Coral: Coral is an organic gem created by animal organisms from the
ocean. Its colors range from light orange to dark red. It can be very
expensive. Some coral is not legally farmed, so faux coral is a good
alternative. Faux coral is normally made from glass or resin.
14) Emerald: This is a precious stone, so emerald beads can be very
pricey. It’s also a delicate stone, so it can fracture fairly easily. Another
favorite of fine jewelers, you’ll normally find faceted emeralds in gold
jewelry. However, some vendors also sell emerald beads.
15) Fluorite: When you purchase fluorite beads, you’ll notice that they
don’t come in just one color. In fact, if you buy them by the unfinished
strand, you’ll see that even on one strand, the colors vary from light to dark
purple, light to dark green, and off-white. Look for similar pairs of beads to
make funky earrings. Or string various colors together with spacer beads to
show off the variety available.
16) Garnets: Garnet is the birthstone for January. While you’ve probably
seen this stone used in fine jewelry before, it’s also a very popular and
fairly inexpensive gemstone used for beads. It comes in a variety of colors,
but you’ll most often find garnet beads to be dark red to burgundy.
17) Hematite: Dark and shiny, hematite is an iron ore. It’s dark gray, and
to some people it looks black. Along with round beads in different millimeters,
hematite beads are also available in a variety of shapes such as stars, hearts,
cubes, moons, and tubes. I use hematite teardrops often for earrings or
pendants.
18) Iolite: Originating from the mineral cordierite, iolite is a violet
blue gemstone often with ribbons and flecks of other colors. It’s recently surged in
popularity. Some of the areas where this gemstone is mined include Sri Lanka,
India, and Burma. Pair it with rose quartz or freshwater pearls to create a
delicate bracelet or pair of earrings.
19) Jade: Reminiscent of the Orient, jade is a very hard stone and has
been used for centuries for carving. Dark green is the most common form of
jade, but it also comes in other colors such as lavender, yellow, and orange.
20) Jasper: This highly prized gemstone of the ancient world is still
popular today. It’s found in many different colors, but each displays ribbons
of color, which make it a favorite of lapidary artists, or jewelry stonecutters. Look
for cabochons, pendants, and beads in various shapes made from this beautiful
stone.
21) Lapis lazuli: This is a beautiful blue stone with flecks of pyrite infused
throughout. The darker the color, the higher the quality of the lapis lazuli.
It looks really nice when
combined with southwestern-related stones such as malachite and turquoise. I
personally prefer to pair lapis lazuli with sterling silver, rather than gold,
findings and spacers.
22) Mother-of-pearl: This is actually a form of shell, and while it’s available in
its natural color (a mixture of beiges), most beaders like to use the white
variety of mother-of-pearl beads, which have been bleached to a pearly white
color. If you want the look of pearls without the price, these are a good
economical alternative to consider.
23) Peridot: The birthstone for those born in August, peridot is a form of
olivine, and its richest deposits come from the island of Zagbargad. Legends
claim that this pale green stone was a favorite of Cleopatra.
24) Rock crystal: Clear quartz is commonly called rock
crystal. Though it can
be found in a number of different types of beads, including beautiful pendants,
it’s also very popular as chip beads, which are (as the name implies) small chips
of stone with holes in them.
25) Rose quartz: Very often rose quartz, which is a light pink, is
color-treated because in its natural form it’s a very pale pink color. As with
most quartz stones, you don’t want to leave it in bright light or the color will
fade.
26) Serpentine: In bead form, serpentine is usually light green, but this
stone also comes in yellow, brown, and black. It’s mined all over the world,
including in Italy, Canada, and Russia.
27) Tanzanite: Tanzanite is named after the location where it was
discovered, Tanzania in East Africa. It’s a beautiful purple color with
overtones of blue. Tanzanite is tough to get and extremely expensive because
civil war has ravaged Tanzania for decades. If you want the look of tanzanite,
look for other stones, like zoisite, that are heated to create a version of
tanzanite.
28) Tiger’s eye: Tiger’s eye is an earthy-colored stone with streaks of light
to dark brown and golden yellows throughout. A few areas in which it is found
include Australia, South Africa, and North America. This is an excellent stone
to use with natural fibers such as leather and hemp.
29) Tourmaline: The term tourmaline doesn’t
refer to one type of stone but rather a group of ten different minerals. When
purchasing tourmaline beads, you’ll find them most often available in pink,
orangey red, blues, and green. Tourmaline is beautiful in pendants and
earrings.
30) Turquoise: Turquoise is used in much of the jewelry made in the
Southwest, which is understandable because deposits of turquoise are located
across the western part of the United States. Because it is a soft, porous
stone, many turquoise beads are labeled as “stabilized,” meaning the turquoise
has been treated with resin to help keep the stone from breaking apart when it
is carved into beads and other
shapes.
While beauty is in the eye of the beholder, the actual
identification of a gemstone is not. Scientists and jewelers send stones
through rigorous tests to identify and classify them, to make sure that if it
looks like a citrine and walks like a citrine, it is actually a citrine.
Choosing Stone Components
for Your Jewelry
A component is
a bead, charm, or small piece of a larger jewelry piece. Don’t be confused by
terms thrown around in bead and gem stores to describe stones. Gemstones can be
called natural,
genuine, simulated, synthetic, composite, or any combination of these
terms.
Here’s the key to
understanding common gemstone terms before buying stone components and
gemstones:
Natural gemstones are just that, 100 percent
natural.
They may have been cut and polished, but other than
that, their beauty was created without interference from humans. Natural
gemstones haven’t been treated, heated, dyed, or otherwise altered by people.
Genuine gemstones start out as natural
gemstones, but they may have been treated to enhance their appearance. For
example, they may have been treated with heat or radiation to change or enhance
their color, or small cracks in them may have been filled with epoxy, resin, or
wax. (It’s the gemological equivalent of filling dings in your car’s
windshield.) When any of these treatments have been applied, they are no longer natural gemstones.
They are still real gems, but not natural gems.
Treating gemstones isn’t a fraudulent practice. It’s
recognized as a legitimate procedure in the industry. Treatments allow more of
us to own gemstones because it rescues stones that would otherwise not be
sellable. If naturally “perfect” stones were the only ones available, most
people couldn’t afford them.
Simulated gemstones are sometimes called imitation
stones. These stones
are usually made from glass that’s colored to mimic the genuine article. They
can be a beautiful addition to any jewelry piece at a fraction of the cost.
Watch out for simulated stones mounted in a setting that may have either foil
or paint behind it, to change its appearance.
Ask the jeweler about the mounting, and if you have any doubts, have the
jeweler remove the mounting so you can examine the stone on its own. A cubic
zirconia, or CZ, is an example of a simulated stone.
Synthetic gemstones are grown in a lab. In fact, they’re sometimes
called lab-grown stones. They aren’t dug out of
the ground. They are created by heating minerals and components to precise
temperatures. Synthetic gemstones share the same physical, chemical, and
optical properties of natural gemstones. In fact, in order to use thesynthetic label,
the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) requires that the stone be identical in
every way to the natural version. Many synthetic gems are tough to detect
unless you’re an expert.
A composite stone is a smaller piece or slice of a
desirable, genuine stone that’s been combined with a larger chunk of an
inexpensive or imitation gemstone. In the case of opals, sometimes thin slices
of opal are placed on top of cheaper quartz pieces. These stones can be beautiful;
just make sure you know what you’re getting and pay an appropriate price for
it.
Not all genuine stones are valuable. Poor quality
stones are lurking out there (at inflated prices), so beware. Get the facts
about a specific gem before you buy it. Buy pricey gemstones labeled natural only from an experienced jeweler or store you
trust. If you’re buying a stone for its beauty rather than its traditional
value, let your eye be your guide: If the price seems fair and you like the
stone, go for it.
As in any other industry, supply and demand drives
gemstone prices up and down. While every stone and bead is different. If you
are not set on a particular stone but want a particular color, you can still buy
or create a gemstone necklace at a reasonable price.
The Powers and Meaning of Semi-precious
Metals and Stones
Jewelry supplies aren’t just beautiful; they can also have deep
meanings. Much like flowers in the Victorian age, gems and metals were chosen
as gifts for their healing properties, to symbolize feelings, and to send a
message to the receiver.
Here are a few of my favorite myths
surrounding some of the stones:
Amazonite: Associated with
love, truth, and honor. It was believed to have calming, cleansing properties.
Amethyst: Makes the wearer
gentle and good-natured. It’s believed to help fight addiction and prevent
drunkenness. Many people believe it can stabilize mental disorders by bringing
a healing peace and love to the wearer.
Aquamarine: Provides the calming
energy of the sea. Worn by sailors to harness the power of the sea and instill
bravery, it’s believed to have powers of healing, bringing joy, and enhancing
perception.
Aventurine: Believed to increase
intelligence and boost creative energy. Long a good luck stone for gamblers, it
gives good luck and brings the wearers money and protects them from theft.
Black onyx: Used for lucky
talismans in battle. It’s a protective stone that promotes physical and mental
strength and good decision-making.
Garnet: Symbol of true
friendship. It’s also said to stimulate creativity and passion.
Hematite: Makes the wearer
full of energy, alertness, and passion.
Jade: Represents luck and ancient wisdom. It’s
believed to promote long life, fertility, and wisdom and to promote a sense of
balance.
Jasper: An ancient stone
associated with healing, protection, and relaxation. Some believe it can
protect the wearer from snake and spider bites.
Lapis lazuli:
Heightens awareness, ESP, and creativity.
Opal: Believed to enhance memory, imagination,
and creativity. It was believed to banish nightmares and bring happy dreams.
Pearls: Symbolizes purity,
faith, and innocence.
Rose quartz: Brings the wearers
love and happiness and links them to the gods and the afterlife.
Sapphire: Brings the power of
peace and healing, especially for depression and anxiety. Sapphire is believed
to fulfill dreams and desires.
Silver: Purported to be the
metal of the moon.
Tiger’s eye: Used as a protector
of the spirit and bringer of luck and fortune. It’s said to soften
stubbornness.
Tourmaline: Color-changing
chameleon gemstone is said to hold inspirations in the ever-changing color
combinations. Some call it the Muse’s Stone.
Turquoise: Used by hunters to
ensure their success. It absorbs negative energy and balances male and female
energies.
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