Pearl Facts: Sources of Natural Pearls

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What are Natural Pearls?

Natural pearls are nearly 100% calcium carbonate and conchiolin. It is thought that natural pearls form under a set of accidental conditions when a microscopic intruder or parasite enters a bivalve mollusk, and settles inside the shell. The mollusk, being irritated by the intruder, forms a pearl sac of external mantle tissue cells and secretes the calcium carbonate and conchiolin to cover the irritant. This secretion process is repeated many times, thus producing a pearl. Natural pearls come in many shapes, with perfectly round ones being comparatively rare.

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Typically, the build-up of a natural pearl consists of a brown central zone formed by columnar calcium carbonate (usually calcite, sometimes columnar aragonite) and a yellowish to white outer zone consisting of nacre (tabular aragonite). In a pearl cross-section such as the diagram, these two different materials can be seen. The presence of columnar calcium carbonate rich in organic material indicates juvenile mantle tissue that formed during the early stage of pearl development. Displaced living cells with a well-defined task may continue to perform their function in their new location, often resulting in a cyst. Such displacement may occur via an injury. The fragile rim of the shell is exposed and is prone to damage and injury. Crabs, other predators and parasites such as worm larvae may produce traumatic attacks and cause injuries in which some external mantle tissue cells are disconnected from their layer.

Formation of Natural Pearls

Embedded in the conjunctive tissue of the mantle, these cells may survive and form a small pocket in which they continue to secrete their natural product: calcium carbonate. The pocket is called a pearl sac, and grows with time by cell division; in this way the pearl grows also. The juvenile mantle tissue cells, according to their stage of growth, produce columnar calcium carbonate, which is secreted from the inner surface of the pearl sac. With ongoing time the external mantle cells of the pearl sac proceed to the formation of tabular aragonite. When the transition to nacre secretion occurs, the brown pebble becomes covered with a nacreous coating. As this process progresses, the shell itself grows, and the pearl sac seems to travel into the shell. However, it actually stays in its original relative position within the mantle tissue. After a couple of years, a pearl will have formed and the shell might be found by a lucky pearl fisher.

What is the Value of a Natural Pearl?

Quality natural pearls are very rare jewels. The actual value of a natural pearl is determined in the same way as it would be for other "precious" gems. The valuation factors include size, shape, color, quality of surface, orient and luster.

Single, natural pearls are often sold as a collector's item, or set as centerpieces in unique jewelry. Very few matched strands of natural pearls exist, and those that do often sell for hundreds of thousands of dollars. (In 1917, jeweler Pierre Cartier purchased the Fifth Avenue mansion that is now the New York Cartier store in exchange for a matched, double strand of natural pearls that he had been collecting for years; valued at the time at $1 million USD.)

The Great Depression effectively slashed the value of the natural pearl, but there is no doubt that it had been some time coming. The introduction and advance of the cultured pearl hit the pearl industry hard; it had pearl dealers publicly disputing over the authenticity of these new cultured pearls, and left many consumers uneasy and confused about the much lower prices. Essentially, it damaged the image of both natural and cultured pearls alike. By the 1950s, an era of every woman being able to own her own pearl necklace had begun, and natural pearls were reduced to a small, exclusive niche in the pearl industry.


Related Article: What is a Pearl Doctor?


Sources of Natural Pearls

Sources of Natural Pearls. Where are natural pearls found?  Where are natural pearls found? The answer may surprise you...yes, natural pearls can be found almost anywhere.

Today, natural pearls are rare, very expensive and are not the basis of any commercial fishery. Traditional and still occasional sources of natural pearls include:

a) Saltwater pearls from historical pearling beds in the Persian Gulf, Gulf of Mannar between India and Sri Lanka, off Hepu on the coast of China, waters to the north of Australia, the islands of Oceania, the Gulf of Mexico, and waters surrounding Pearl Island off the coast of Venezuela; Freshwater pearls from Scottish and European rivers, and the Mississippi River and its tributaries in the USA;

b) Rare baroque saltwater abalone pearls from Californian and New Zealand waters; and

c) Non-nacreous pink pearls from the pink conch of the Caribbean. Natural nacreous pearls occur rarely as whole pearls, and more commonly as hemispherical blister pearls. Whole natural pearls are rarely spherical, and the thinness and evenness of their circumferential layers of nacre determine the strength and quality of iridescence displayed by a particular pearl. As an example, compare the appearance and structure of moderately iridescent Pinctada (silver-lipped pearl ‘oyster’) nacre with that of highly iridescent Haliotis or abalone pearl nacre.

Traditionally, nacreous natural pearls have been valued by the factors of rarity, size or weight, perfection of shape, colour, luster and orient, and freedom from surface imperfections. The weight of natural pearls has been calculated in units, termed the ‘pearl grain’ that weighs 50 mg.

Previously, natural pearls were found in many parts of the world. Present day natural pearling is confined mostly to seas off Bahrain. Australia also has one of the world's last remaining fleets of pearl diving ships. Australian pearl divers dive for south sea pearl oysters to be used in the cultured south sea pearl industry. The catch of pearl oysters is similar to the numbers of oysters taken during the natural pearl days. Hence significant numbers of natural pearls are still found in the Australian Indian Ocean waters from wild oysters. X-ray examination is required to positively verify natural pearls found today.

Pearls are rounded concretions of calcium carbonate and an organic matrix that are secreted by cells of the outer mantle of many species of saltwater and freshwater molluscs. While any mollusc1 is theoretically capable of producing a pearl, nacre2 – forming molluscs principally, but not exclusively, secrete those pearls that have long been used for personal regal adornment.

Pearls form from the same materials and by the same processes which secrete the shells of their host bivalves, gastropods and cephalopods. Both shells and their pearls have a composite structure of calcium carbonate (aragonite and/or calcite), an organic matrix (essentially of the protein conchins, formerly conchiolin and carbohydrate) and water. Although the organic content of pearls is usually less than 1%, it is this minor component that determines both the crystallographic properties and orientation of the calcium carbonate that is secreted by the mollusc, and the body color of the pearl.

In order to understand how pearls form, one must first understand the basic biology, gross anatomy and microscopic structure of those nacre-producing bivalve molluscs that are commonly termed either saltwater ‘pearl oysters’ or freshwater ‘pearl mussels’.

The pearl’s color (due to pigments in the pearl’s organic matrix and/or thickness and evenness of its constituent layers of aragonite crystals), luster (due to light reflection from the smoothness or perfection of the pearl’s external surface) and orient (due to its subsurface iridescence and reflectivity) are determined by the colour, luster and orient of the inner nacreous or non-nacreous lining of the mollusc’s shell in which the pearl grew. For example:

1) The oriental pearl ‘oyster’ Pinctada radiata/imbricata from the Persian Gulf and the Gulf of Mannar yields mostly smallish cream to yellowish pearls that display subtle orient.

2) The silver- or gold-lipped pearl ‘oyster’ (P. maxima) from North-West Australia yields nacreous pearls of white, silver and yellow to golden hue that also display orient.

3) The black-lipped (P. margaritifera) pearl ‘oyster’, from Pacific Oceania, yields grey to black pearls that also can display a spectacular contrasting iridescence.

4) Pteria (=Magnavicula) penguin, the black-winged pearl oyster of the tropical waters, yield distinctively iridescent pearls that have a characteristic somewhat metallic (brown to greyish) body colour. Pteria sterna, the rainbow wing shell from the Gulf of California, also yields pearls with highly iridescent black to dark brown nacre.

5) Freshwater (Unio) mussels from Scottish rivers, and the Mississippi River, yield pastel-hued highly lustrous pearls with limited orient.

6) The univalve Haliotis, or abalone, produces mostly baroque nacreous pearls that display strikingly iridescent nacre.

7) The pink conch (S. gigas) of the Caribbean yields pink to orange ‘flame’-patterned pearls that have a non-nacreous porcellanous surfaces.

8) The giant clam (Tridacna gigas) of tropical waters yields white porcellanous (non-nacreous) pearls that have little economic value.




What and Where is the Biggest Pearl on Earth?

The Pearl of Lao Tzu (also referred to as Pearl of Lao Tze and previously as Pearl of Allah) is the largest known pearl in the world. The pearl was found in the Palawan sea, which surrounds the island of Palawan in the Philippines, and was found by a Filipino diver. It is not considered a gemstone pearl, but is instead what is known as a "clam pearl" or "Tridacna pearl" from a giant clam. It measures 24 centimeters in diameter (9.45 inches) and weighs 6.4 kilograms (14.1 lb).

What is the Value of the Biggest Pearl on Earth?

While biologists would regard this object as a kind of pearl, gemologists regard it as a non-nacreous pearl, lacking the iridescence of the pearls that come from saltwater pearl oysters and freshwater pearl mussels. The interior of a giant clam has no nacre (mother of pearl); instead it is porcellaneous, like a china plate. Because of its great size, a giant clam can create a very large pearl, but not an iridescent, gemlike one.

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) and CIBJO now simply use the term "pearl" (or, where appropriate, the more descriptive term "non-nacreous pearl") when referring to such items, rather than the term "calcareous concretion" and, under U.S. Federal Trade Commission rules, various mollusc pearls may be referred to as "pearls" without qualification.

Gemologist Michael Steenrod in Colorado Springs has appraised the pearl at $60,000,000 (1982) and $93,000,000 (2007). Another 1982 appraisal, by Lee Sparrow who owned a gem laboratory and appraisal business in the Phelan Building in San Franciso, put the pearl at $42,000,000.

In America, the pearl was exhibited at the Ripley's Believe It or Not! Odditorium in New York, valued at $35,000,000.

The Palawan Princess, considered the second largest pearl, was offered at auction by Bonhams and Butterfields of Los Angeles on December 6, 2009. Though the five pound pearl was estimated to bring $300,000 to $400,000, it was not sold.



References:


Cobb, Wilburn Dowell. 1939. "The Pearl of Allah". Natural History.

Kunz, George F.; Stevenson, Charles. 1908. The book of the pearl. New York: The Century Co.

Landman, Neil H., et al. 2001. Pearls: A Natural History. Harry Abrams, Inc. ISBN 0-8109-4495-2

Ward, Fred. 2002. Pearls (Fred Ward Gem Book), 3rd Edition. Gem Guides Book Company. ISBN 1-887651-08-X

Strack, Elisabeth. 2006. "Pearls". Ruhle-Diebener-Verlag. ISBN 3981084802.

How to Buy Bangles Jewelry Online

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Bangles are one of the earliest forms of jewelry and have been used by men and women alike for centuries. Archaeologists have found evidence pointing to their existence over 4000 years ago in South Asia. During these years, bangles have reappeared time and time again in slightly different motifs but have always retained their simple, basic design. Today, whether simple or ornate, bangles still possess strong religious and cultural symbolism in some parts of the world. They are also ideal gifts that can be handed down through a family as heirloom items. So choosing a good bangle can mean a lot. Below are some aspects you need to put under consideration when buying a bangle.

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The young, cool models wear fun, colorful, plastic versions with their T- shirts and Converse shoes. Actresses often choose to wear a pile of thin gold ones as their armor on the red carpet. And the “It” girls go for funky ethnic styles from India and Africa. Bangles are a style staple that let a girl play around. They are available in an array of precious and nonprecious materials. You can find them in Saks or on the street. They can be extremely plain or intricately decorated. Bright and bold, or more classic and traditional. It all depends on your style. Try out different versions. Mix the wood with the silver. See what works for you. Your bangles are your bells, announcing your stylish arrival.

Types of Bangles Jewelry

There are two basic types of bangles: a solid cylinder type; and a split, cylindrical spring opening/closing type. The primary distinguishing factor between these is the material used to make the bangles. This may vary from anything from glass to jade to metal to lac and even rubber or plastic.

One factor that adds to the price of the bangles is the artifacts or the work done further on the metal. This includes embroidery or small glass pieces or paintings or even small hangings that are attached to the bangles. The rareness of a color and its unique value also increase the value. Bangles made from lac are one of the oldest ones and among the brittle category too. Lac is clay like material which is molded in hot kilns-like places to make these bangles. Among the recent entrants are the rubber bangles that are worn more like a wrist band by youngsters while the plastic ones are there to add a trendy look.

Normally, a bangle worn by people around the world is simply an inflexible piece of jewelry worn around the wrist. However, in many cultures, especially in the South Asia and in Arabian Peninsula, bangles have evolved into various types in which different ones are used at different occasions.

How to Choose Fashionable Bangles

Rare vintage Bakelite bangles: Bakelite is a very rare, very beautiful material produced in the 1920s and ‘30s, but is no longer manufactured. Check out Mark Davis or scour the vintage shops.

Hermès enamel bangles: The iconic bangle, which comes in a variety of designs. Great when stacked together or mixed with other colors.

Alexis Bittar: Designer who makes beautiful Lucite bangles.

Bangles are Arm Candies

For the bold, wear big designs from wrist to elbow, as Nancy Cunard (Nancy Cunard in bangles) famously did.

For glamour, wear an armload of thin eighteen-carat gold bracelets à la Carolina Herrera, who is known for wearing at least ten at a time. You should stick to no less than six. Mix inexpensive and real if you’d like. It’s good to go vintage here.

For fun, look for odd-colored Bakelite from the flea market or cheap Indian bangles.

For a little glitz, thin bangles of small pavé diamonds add fun and sparkle.




What are Bakelite Bangles?

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Bakelite is a very rare material that is no longer made. It was the precursor to plastic, was almost indestructible, could easily imitate other materials (ivory, tortoiseshell, coral), and could be dyed almost any color. It was used from the 1920s through the 1950s to make everything from telephone handsets to radios to buttons to costume jewelry. Bakelite jewelry pieces became popular in the ‘20s and gained momentum as the Depression deepened and buying expensive jewelry was out of the question. Women wore colorful Bakelite bangles to add color and a bit of fun to an otherwise drab period. Icons like Diana Vreeland and Elsa Schiaparelli were fans of the bangles and helped to contribute to the popularity of the jewelry. When World War II began, production of Bakelite ground to a halt, since factories were used to make war materials only. By the time the war was over, cheaper plastics had been developed and very little of the material was produced. The golden age of Bakelite had ended. Today, costume jewelry made out of Bakelite is highly collectible.

The most sought-after colors include:

1) Butterscotch, a golden yellow, which was produced only during the ‘30s.

2)END OF DAY,” a blend of three or more contrasting colors, which were put together in the factory at the end of the day with all of the leftover materials.

3) Stardust, transparent with specks of gold, which disappeared after the1930s.


Major Producers of Bangles

1) Hyderabad, India has a historic world famous market for bangles named Laad Bazaar.

2) Glass bangles are mostly produced in the old Indian city of Firozabad in North India.

3) Pakistan glass bangles are produced mainly in Hyderabad, Pakistan.



Do you know? How to Tell Real Pearls from Imitation Pearls

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