The average man spends
three months finding the ideal diamond engagement ring. That doesn’t mean
he shops for 24 hours a day. Nevertheless, it’s understandable: chances are,
he’s never bought a diamond before, and doesn’t have much knowledge on the
topic. Engagement rings don’t come cheap, and so the pressure is on to get it
right.
The most important thing is to take your time. Get to
know the most popular diamond shapes and think about which might
fit best with her personal style. Learn about the 4Cs, so that you can find the best diamond at the best price
for you.
Like wondering whether she’ll say yes isn’t stressful
enough. You’re also supposed to select and purchase a ring that fits her
magnificent personality, her singular style and her, ahem, finger?
Step #1: KNOW
THE FOUR C’s
CUT
This refers to not only the shape of the stone, but its proportions, factors
which determine the sparkle of the diamond
engagement ring. Proportions determine brilliance and sparkle. Grades
are assigned based on these. (Don’t confuse cut with shape.)
Shallow: Looks bigger from top, light escapes out the bottom
Ideal: Light enters, exits through top; most expensive
Deep: Light exits the sides; usually a higher carat weight
CLARITY
This indicates how clear the diamond is, how free from blemishes
and other imperfections. Ranks internal imperfections, called inclusions (I).
Only grades I 1-I 3 have inclusions visible to the naked eye.
COLOR
Diamonds are found in a variety of colors, but in general,
the whiter the better. A letter-grade scale rating the absence of color.
CARAT WEIGHT
This is actually the weight of the stone, not its
dimensions. This is how much the diamond weighs. 1carat = 100 points. Bigger number = higher cost. (Bigger isn’t always
better.) Also consider the top of the diamond in millimeters, which determines
how big it looks in the setting.
The price you’ll pay for a diamond depends on the four
Cs. They determine what I call the fifth C:
Cost.
Before we learn how to grade the quality of a diamond
and determine what it should cost, let me share some acquired wisdom about
diamond buying. Don’t ever lose sight of the fact that you’re probably buying a
diamond to make the love of your life happy. If you ask a woman what she’d like
in a diamond, she’s not going to say, “Honey,
I want a one-and-a-half carat, VS1, F(1) in a Class II cut.” (If she does,
better rob a bank—this woman’s going to be expensive!) What she will say is
something like, “Honey, I want it to be big,
clear, white, and sparkly.” It’s your man-job to take those general
adjectives, translate them into diamond grades, decide on a stone, and get your
money’s worth.
Step #2: SHAPE,
SETTING
Shape
Rounds are the most popular, but pick what she’ll love.
The distinction between a diamond's shape and cut may be confusing at first.
The shape refers to the appearance of the stone, and the cut to the diamond's
ability to reflect light.
Most diamond shapes are round, square (cushion),
rectangular (princess, Asscher, emerald, radiant), heart-shaped, pear-shaped,
oval, or marquise (like a pear but pointed on both ends). The easiest way to
distinguish the two is with pictures. The picture below shows the most common
diamond shapes.
The round brilliant is the most popular diamond shape
and cut, with many sources citing that three-fourths of the diamonds sold are
of this type. This could be for several reasons. Most rough diamonds are shaped
such that two round brilliant diamonds can be cut with the least amount of
crystal lost. Also, the round brilliant and the princess shape (which is the
next most popular) are common because they reflect light best and are thus the
most brilliant for their size. Crystals that are not symmetrically formed or
have awkwardly located inclusions are often cut into what is called a "fancy cut" or a cut other than a
round brilliant.
Setting
When deciding on a diamond engagement ring, the setting
is one of the most important factors to consider. Different ring setting styles
cater to a wide range of tastes. A classic, understated bride-to-be may prefer
a simple solitaire while more fashion-forward women might like the bezel or
tension settings. Use this ring setting guide to learn more about the available
options. Anything your heart desires. Top
metals are yellow gold (10K, 14K, 18K), white gold (needs replating over time),
and platinum (hypoallergenic and most expensive).
Step #3: KNOW
YOUR GIRLFRIEND
Ask yourself: What do her favorite jewelry pieces look
like? Are they more contemporary or art deco engagement rings? Classic? Vintage looking? Are
they big and bold pieces or more understated? How does she dress? Would you
classify her as bold, earthy, vintage, classic or elegant? You may not have to
choose a diamond engagement ring. You can consider other precious gemstones.
Read about other gemstones at List of Precious Gems by
Value with Pictures.
Step #4: KNOW
HER RING SIZE
Find
out her ring size without asking her by:
a) If she wears a ring on her ring finger, grab it next time
it’s off. Place it on a piece of paper, run a pencil around the inside and take
the drawing to the jeweler, who can turn your reconnaissance into an actual
size. Or, go costume jewelry shopping. Have her try on a variety of rings on
different fingers, keeping in mind which one fits her ring finger. Buy it for
later reference.
b) Locating a jewelry box belonging to the woman for whom
you're choosing a ring.
c) Find a ring. Make sure it's one that she has worn recently,
and that it's one she wears on the correct finger.
d) Select a ring that she wears often, but make sure she sports
it on the correct finger. Choosing a ring that she wears on her index finger
won't help you size a ring for her ring finger.
e) Remember: Focusing on only one C will rarely satisfy anyone. You can buy a one-carat diamond for a
few hundred dollars if you ignore color, cut, and clarity. The idea is to find a balance. Also Remember: Never buy a
diamond that’s already in a setting. The setting makes it almost impossible
to examine the stone carefully. Buy the
diamond first, then decide what setting to put it into.
Step #5: CHOOSE
THE BEST JEWELER
a) Part of your criteria for choosing a ring
shop or jewelry shop is its engraving and sizing policies. If both are included
free—and in some places they aren’t—it’s an advantage. Measure this one
carefully, though, because an expensive store with free sizing and engraving is not better than an inexpensive store
that charges extra for engraving and sizing.
b) You should only deal with jewelers who have
been around a long time, have a long-lasting reputation, are affiliated with
professional associations, and enjoy a strong reputation among your friends,
family, and colleagues. A quality establishment can get you a quality engagement
ring. Those fly-by night shops? Avoid them like the plague even if they
advertise rock bottom prices.
c.) The retailer would have to be in business,
with a brick-and-mortar location for at least ten years. (That way I would know
they weren’t going anywhere.)
d.) A clean Better Business Bureau (BBB) record.
e.) A lab appraisal or lab grading report with
the purchase. Also, never accept a lab
grading report older than six months. You never know where that diamond has
been or what’s been done to it since it was graded. If they are convinced their
old diamond is so wonderful, have them regrade it.
f.) A bonding document guaranteeing the diamond
is 100 percent natural and not treated.
g.) Lifetime breakage guarantee to guard against
baked diamonds.
h.) Lifetime cash buy-back to guarantee against
any future customer dissatisfaction.
i.) A lifetime exchange policy.
j.) A lifetime trade-in policy.
k.) A fair, provable price.
l.) Free annual service.
m.) Knowledgeable salespeople.
n.) Good store reputation.
o.) Takes all major credit cards.
Step #6: LOOK FOR DEALS
OR DISCOUNTS
a) Diamonds with flaws in them are priced lower,
due to their lesser value on the market, but you should always avoid rings
where their flaws are visible to the naked eye. Of course, a jeweler is going
to steer you away from rings with inclusions that can be seen with a jeweler’s loupe
or magnifying machine. However, here’s something to keep in mind: a good jeweler will be able to tell you if
a stone’s particular minor flaw can be covered by the prong. Once set, the
ring looks amazing. The flaw is hidden from view. Sometimes there is life for a
slightly flawed stone, and you can get it for far less than a stone that is graded
“perfect” or “near perfect.” Be diligent in your research for this, and know
that having a great jeweler is key to these kinds of brilliant arrangements.
b) Shop
for ring stones separately at jeweler’s centers or the diamond district of
a big city. Many men have found that while this isn’t the most efficient means
of getting an engagement ring, since it does take some travel and deal making.
Just be patient and your efforts will be rewarded.
c) Take advantage of pre-holiday sales at jewelry
shops. Before the winter holidays (peak engagement time, that is), many ring
shops will hold wonderful sales. You might wish to time your engagement ring
shopping excursion for these times when you can get the ring of your dreams for
40 to 60 percent off.
d) Pave-set diamonds are a favorite “trick” of
people who want their rings to look more dazzling. Pave-set diamonds are something like a cobblestone road in their
creation, with smaller diamond pieces set flat to look more sparkly. This type
of setting might give you the flash you’re after, without the price tag of
three large set stones or channel stones.
e) Consider buying your rings in an antique shop, where beautiful rings
with some history are offered at lower prices. Just be sure to get the rings
appraised immediately to be sure you’ve gotten your money’s worth. You may even
find that your three-hundred-dollar ring is actually a valuable piece of
jewelry.
f) Make sure you’re getting your money’s worth.
Check the inside of the bands for a fourteen-carat (14k) gold marking if that’s
what you’re buying.
g) Economical choices may be gold- or
silver-plated bands. They still carry the same meaning, no matter what they’re made
of.
h) For great deals on quality gemstones, shop in
the diamond district of your nearest major city. This is where the buyers for
all of those jewelry stores in the mall come to get wholesale prices and then
sell the same jewels to you at higher prices. Check out where they’re shopping
and you may discover a great find.
i) Go to your family’s regular jeweler for proven
reliability and a possible discount for your loyalty to the place. One lucky
man I know received 10 percent off on rings just because she’d recently bought
a gift there for her mother.
j) Another popular option among many couples
today is designing their own engagement rings, and then taking the design (and
perhaps even the stones) to their reputable jeweler who will “build” their custom rings. It sounds
like it would be more expensive than buying an existing ring, but that’s not
always the case. So check it out and visit websites like www.bluenile.com or www.adiamondisforever.com,
where you can design your own ring according to the gemstone and ring settings
you want, and then either order them online or print out your design to take to
your jeweler.
k) Comparison shop for your rings in different
stores of different sizes, in different parts of town. Price tags vary, and you
may be able to find a great deal.
l) Visit jewelry stores outside the high-income bracket neighborhoods. In some areas, you
could go to the high-end mall and pay $12,000 for a ring, or you could go to a
ring shop in a more quaint neighborhood with great stores and get the same ring
for $4,000. It’s a law of real estate. Some places are just more expensive by nature
of their reputation, so include some shops in other, less elite areas near you.
m) Check discount jewelry stores and department
stores nearest you. Sales flyers will announce special savings, and
throughout-the-store discounts may apply at the jewelry counter.
Step #7:
CHOOSING PAYMENT METHOD
a) Get a written
appraisal of your rings with your receipt. Make sure your ring supplier
offers a good return policy, in case you must exchange them for another size or
style.
b) A good warranty should be offered to you as
well. Ask about it.
c) Think seriously about whether you want to
arrange an installment plan for paying off your rings. Interest will pile up,
costing you much more money than the price of the ring. A better alternative is to use your credit card—ensuring you proper
reimbursement in case of a problem and, at times, credits or frequent flier
miles. Just be sure to pay off that amount on your credit card so you’re not
accumulating interest on your credit account.
Step #8: WHAT TO
DO AFTER YOU PURCHASE
a) After you buy your rings, have them
appraised immediately. Go to a jeweler other than the one from whom you bought
the ring for this service.
b) This is tip optional to reduce your
expenses. Have your rings insured immediately. In case of loss or theft, you’ll
be reimbursed their full value. The
American Gem Society offers a great free brochure on the details of
insuring your rings.
Have you heard of the most expensive diamond on earth? Then you better
read this, Australian
Pink Diamond Jewelry: The Most Expensive Diamond?.
If you are into videos watch a short clip about tips on How to Choose an Engagement Ring
There are many of the
words and phrases used when discussing gemstones and jewelries. If you have
time, read this... Glossary of Jewelry and Gemstones Terms. It will allow you to better
understand the lingo or jargons that so many sales associates speak, and next
time you're at the store, you will sound
like the expert.
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